Capitol Reef is the Utah national park that people often drive through on the way to more famous ones. It has fewer crowds than Zion and is less famous than Bryce. On a wet October morning, cloud sat on the cliffs and red water ran along the road.
The Waterpocket Fold
The park is built around one huge wrinkle in the earth’s crust. The Waterpocket Fold is a bend in the rock almost 100 miles long. Layers of sandstone were pushed up millions of years ago, then worn into cliffs, domes and canyons. Early travelers found it as hard to cross as a coral reef, and the white domes reminded them of the Capitol in Washington. That is where the name comes from.
The rock comes in bands of red, cream and purple. In the rain the colors get deeper, and the sandstone stands out against a gray sky.
The orchards at Fruita
The middle of the park is a surprise: a green valley of fruit trees. Mormon settlers started the small community of Fruita here in the 1880s. They used water from the Fremont River to grow apples, pears, cherries, peaches and apricots. The people left, but the orchards remain, and the National Park Service still cares for them. In season, you can pick the fruit yourself.
After hours of bare rock, it is strange to see green grass and old fruit trees under those huge cliffs.
Arches and water
Capitol Reef also has natural arches, carved by water and frost over thousands of years. The best known is Hickman Bridge, a short and popular walk from the main road.
Wet weather means you need to be careful here. Canyons can flood fast, and dirt roads turn to slick mud. On a day like this, it is best to stay on the paved road and choose your walks with care. It is still worth seeing. Waterfalls appear on the cliffs after a storm, but they only last a short time.
Practical Info
- Where: Capitol Reef National Park, on Utah Highway 24, near Torrey.
- Scenic Drive: The paved road south from Fruita has an entrance fee, and it is well worth the time.
- Hickman Bridge: A trail of about 1.8 miles round trip, moderate, with some climbing.
- Orchards: Check the park website for what is ripe and when you can pick.
- Weather: Avoid slot canyons and unpaved roads when rain is forecast, and ask at the visitor center about conditions.