The Cíes Islands lie just off the mouth of the Ría de Vigo, a short ferry ride from the city. They are part of Spain’s Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park. There are no cars, and the number of visitors is limited. The islands are mostly rock, pine and scrub, with white sand on one side and sea cliffs on the other.

We bought our ferry tickets online, but we still had to find the ticket office to get paper tickets before we could board.

It was cool and cloudy when we went, about 18 degrees. That is not what the postcards show, but it was good weather for a long walk to the lighthouse.

9.4 kmDistance
5 hrs 15Time out, including stops
235 mElevation gain
173 mHighest point
The white crescent of Praia de Rodas and its lagoon seen from above
Praia de Rodas, the sandbar that joins two of the islands

Praia de Rodas

The boat lands near the islands’ most famous sight, Praia de Rodas. This long curve of pale sand runs between two of the islands, Monteagudo and O Faro. The open sea is on one side and a calm lagoon is on the other. From the path above, you can see the whole shape of it.

The climb to Monte Faro

From the beach, the main path heads south, first through pine and eucalyptus and then along the shore. It is mostly sand and dirt, and it is easy at the start.

A sandy path winding along the shore of the Cíes Islands
The path south along the shore

Then it starts to climb and the island changes. The trees give way to low shrubs and bare granite, marked orange and gray with lichen. The west side of the islands takes the full force of the Atlantic, and you can see it in the rock.

Weathered granite streaked with orange lichen on the Cíes Islands
Granite and lichen on the exposed western side of the island

The path ends at the lighthouse on Monte Faro, at 173 metres. On a clear day the views are huge. We had a wall of gray cloud, but it still felt like standing a long way out at sea.

There were gulls everywhere. The islands have a large seabird colony, and the birds act like they own the paths. This one was in no hurry to move for us.

A young gull perched on a lichen-covered boulder
Gulls are the true residents here, with one of the region’s large colonies

Back to the beach

We came back the same way, with a few side trips, and finished at Rodas with our shoes off. The water is cold, even in July, and very clear. After 9.4 kilometres, it felt good.

Practical Info

  • Getting there: Ferries run in season from Vigo, Baiona and Cangas. Even if you buy online, leave time to find the ticket office. We had to pick up paper tickets there.
  • Permits: Visitor numbers are capped. You need an authorization from the Xunta de Galicia before buying your ferry ticket, so sort this out well in advance.
  • The walk: Our route to the Monte Faro lighthouse and back was 9.4 km with 235 m of gain. Allow a good half day with stops.
  • What to bring: Water, food and layers. Services on the island are limited, and the weather can turn cool and windy.
  • Leave nothing behind: There are no bins on the trails, so carry out everything you bring in.
Keep reading
The baroque west front of Santiago Cathedral seen from below against a blue skySantiago de CompostelaA great dark rock arch on the sand at Praia das Catedrais, with visitors dwarfed beneath itPraia das CatedraisThe square stone Tower of Hercules rising above its round base against a gray skyTower of Hercules

Be the First to Comment