The first view of the cathedral in Florence often comes by accident. The old streets are narrow, with stone buildings on both sides. Then at the end of one of them, a huge red dome fills the gap.
The cathedral
Santa Maria del Fiore was started in 1296, when Florence was rich and wanted to outdo its rivals. The plan called for a bigger dome than any built since ancient times. The problem was that nobody knew how to build it. For decades the cathedral went up around a huge hole in the roof.
From the street, the first thing you notice is the color. The walls are covered in white, green and pink marble. The front is also newer than it looks. The old front was torn down in the 1500s, and the one you see today was finished in 1887.
Giotto’s bell tower stands beside it, in the same marble. Across from the west doors is the Baptistery, with Ghiberti’s famous bronze doors. All of this sits in a tight space, so you cannot step back far enough to see everything at once.
Brunelleschi’s dome
The hole in the roof was finally solved by Filippo Brunelleschi, who was trained as a goldsmith. He won the job in 1420. His idea was to build two shells, one inside the other, without the usual wooden supports. The bricks were laid in a herringbone pattern that held itself up as the dome rose. It took 16 years, and it is still the largest masonry dome in the world.
The best view is from the east end, behind the cathedral. From there, the red tiles rise above the marble, with white ribs running up to the top.
Practical Info
- Where: Piazza del Duomo, in the centre of Florence.
- Entry: The cathedral itself is generally free, but the dome, bell tower, Baptistery and museum are on a combined paid pass. Dome climbs need a timed booking.
- The climb: The dome has 463 steps and no lift, and the bell tower has 414.
- When to go: Evening, for the light on the marble and fewer tour groups. The outside of the buildings can be seen at any hour.
- Dress code: Cover shoulders and knees if you plan to go inside.
