St Peter’s Basilica is hard to judge from outside. The front is wide and the square is huge, so the church just looks big. Then you go inside, and it takes a while to understand the size. The cherubs holding the holy water basins by the door are as big as adults. People at the far end of the nave look tiny.

Shafts of light in the nave of St Peter's Basilica, with crowds below
The nave, with light falling from the windows of the dome

The basilica

The church was started in 1506 to replace an older basilica, and it took more than a century to finish. Bramante, Raphael, Michelangelo and Maderno all worked on it. It was consecrated in 1626. Bernini then added the huge twisted bronze canopy over the altar and the rows of columns around St Peter’s Square.

The best spot is under the dome, where light falls from the windows through the open space. Michelangelo’s Pietà is near the entrance, behind glass. It is worth a slow look, even with the crowd around it.

Up the dome

Climbing the dome is the best thing to do here. You can take a lift part of the way, or you can walk all 551 steps. From the roof you get a close view of the dome and see the statues on the front of the church from behind.

The great dome of St Peter's and a smaller dome seen from the basilica roof
Michelangelo’s dome from the roof of the basilica

The last part is the most memorable. The stairs run between the two shells of the dome, so the walls lean in as you climb. The passage gets narrower and you have to walk at an angle. Near the top it becomes a tight spiral, with a rope for a handrail.

Then you step outside at the very top, and all of Rome is below you. You can look straight down at St Peter’s Square and along the road toward the Tiber River. The Vatican Gardens are behind you.

St Peter's Square and the streets of Rome seen from the top of the dome
St Peter’s Square from the top of the dome

Practical Info

  • Entry: The basilica itself is free, but queues for security can be long. Early morning is usually the best bet.
  • The dome: There is a fee to climb, and it is separate from basilica entry. The lift option still leaves over 300 steps.
  • Not for everyone: The upper stairs are narrow and sloped, and they are hard going if you dislike tight spaces.
  • Dress code: Shoulders and knees must be covered, and this is enforced at the door.
  • Vatican Museums: These and the Sistine Chapel are a separate visit, with their own tickets and a different entrance.
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