The alarm went off in the dark again. We left Redondela at 5:44, under the streetlights. The stage did not look like much on paper, but it gave us the best sunrise of the whole walk.

Day 7 has two real climbs, a famous bridge and a proper city at the end. The Coastal and Central routes are now joined, so there are more walkers on the road.

The sky glowing at sunrise above the Ría de Vigo, framed by dark trees
Sunrise over the Ría de Vigo, above Redondela
22.9 kmDistance
~8 hrsTime out
613 mElevation gain
171 mHighest point
0m 100m 200m 0km 5km 10km 15km 20km Elevation profile — Day 7: Redondela → Pontevedra

The climb above the ría

The first climb starts right away and gains more than 150 metres in five kilometres. It is much easier in the cool air of early morning. As the path rises through the trees, you start to see the ría through the gaps.

We kept stopping to look. The pines were dark against the sky, the water was spread out below us, and the colors kept changing. It made up for the early alarm.

Dark pine silhouettes against first light with the ría below
The climb out of Redondela, just before the sun came up

Along the path there is a fence covered with ribbons, patches, flags and notes left by pilgrims, like the ones we saw at Apúlia on Day 2. Past that, the route drops through tall trees and along stone walls with hydrangeas.

A fence covered with ribbons, patches and notes left by pilgrims
Pilgrim offerings on the climb above the ría
A dirt path lined with blue hydrangeas
Hydrangeas along the descent toward Arcade

Ponte Sampaio

The way down takes you to Arcade and then to the long stone bridge at Ponte Sampaio. It has low round arches over the Verdugo River. It also has some history. In June 1809, Spanish forces under Pablo Morillo held this crossing against Marshal Ney’s French troops. The French were pushed back, and the fight helped end their occupation of Galicia.

It felt a little odd to cross a battlefield with a backpack on. We took our time on the bridge anyway.

The low stone arches of Ponte Sampaio reflected in the River Verdugo
Ponte Sampaio, where Ney’s advance was stopped in 1809

Over the second hill

The second climb starts right after the bridge and goes up to about 145 metres around kilometre 11. It is shorter than the first one and passes through old villages and woods. After that, the last kilometres are low and flat, and they take you through green woods to the edge of the city.

A shaded woodland path near Pontevedra
Quiet woodland on the final kilometres into Pontevedra

Pontevedra

Pontevedra is a nice place to arrive. The old town is made of pale granite, with small squares and covered walkways. After a week of walking beside busy roads, we really liked it.

The best stop is at the edge of the old town: the Ruins of Santo Domingo. This was a Gothic convent founded around the end of the 1200s. Only the east end of the church is left, with five chapels and tall, empty windows open to the sky. It became a national monument in 1895 and is now part of the Pontevedra museum.

The roofless Gothic chapels of the Ruins of Santo Domingo in Pontevedra
The Ruins of Santo Domingo, Pontevedra

The city’s best-known church is the Santuario de la Peregrina, started in 1778 and dedicated to the Pilgrim Virgin. Its floor plan is shaped like a scallop shell, the symbol of the Camino.

We finished around two in the afternoon. That left time for a big meal and a look around town, which is the best part of starting so early.

Granite buildings and steps in the old town of Pontevedra
The old town of Pontevedra

Practical Info

  • Start: Redondela town centre.
  • End: Pontevedra old town.
  • Distance / Difficulty: 22.9 km with 613 m of gain. Moderate, with a real climb to 171 m at about km 5 and a smaller one to about 145 m around km 11.
  • Allow: About eight hours with stops.
  • Best time to start: Before sunrise, if you can. The views over the ría at first light are the highlight of the stage.
  • Road crossings: Take care at the main road crossings on the way down toward Arcade.
  • Ponte Sampaio: This ten-arch bridge over the Verdugo is a natural place for a break.
  • Pontevedra: The Ruins of Santo Domingo, the Peregrina and the old town can all be walked in a single afternoon.

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