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The Museo de los Molinos de Mazonovo near Taramundi has 19 mills, and many of them only run if you work them yourself. The sign outside calls it the largest mill museum in Spain.
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The Tower of Hercules in A Coruña was built by the Romans almost 2,000 years ago, and it is still a working lighthouse. You can walk through its foundations and climb to the top.
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Beyond Santiago the land runs out at Fisterra, the headland the Romans named the end of the earth. We went out to the lighthouse and the rocks for the evening light on the Atlantic.
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The Camino ends at the cathedral door, but the building deserves a day of its own. We went back to see the baroque west front, the packed nave and the stepped granite roof high above the city.
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The last day begins on the water, sailing up the Ulla through morning mist on the route of the Apostle’s legendary final voyage. Then 25 kilometres on foot from Padrón, and the Praza do Obradoiro at last.
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The prettiest walking of the Camino: down through a mossy river gorge, out across vineyards and along the river to the sea at Vilanova de Arousa, with a well-deserved plate of Padrón peppers at the end.
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We left the main Camino at Pontevedra for the quieter Spiritual Variant: a dawn walk past the monastery at Poio, down to the shores of the ría, then 400 metres straight up the hill and over to the Cistercian monastery at Armenteira.
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Another start in the dark, this time rewarded with a sunrise over the Ría de Vigo. Twenty-three kilometres past Arcade and over the old bridge at Ponte Sampaio, where Napoleon’s army was turned back, to the stone squares of Pontevedra.
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Thirty kilometres, starting in the dark. The longest day since Porto runs out of Tui by streetlight, through the woods to O Porriño, then over a 228-metre hill to Redondela.
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The shortest day on foot and the fullest in every other way. A clock tower in Caminha, the walls of Valença, an iron bridge over the Minho and the rooftops of Tui Cathedral, as the Camino leaves the coast and crosses into Spain.
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